Category Archives: Heirloom Apple Varieties

Pick Your Own Pleasure, Culture

 

 

Heirloom apples and Vermont artisan cheese are a match made in heaven.

Heirloom apples and Vermont artisan cheese are a match made in heaven.

Poverty Lane Orchards and Alyson's Orchard in New Hampshire and Champlain Orchards  in Vermont offer a good selection of heirloom apples.

Poverty Lane Orchards and Alyson’s Orchard in New Hampshire and Champlain Orchards in Vermont offer a good selection of heirloom apples.

Please ask Jane Booth for permission to reproduce her copyrighted photographs and/or writing. Email jane.booth.1@gmail.com or call (802) 866-3329.   Jane has spent a good part of her career photographing and writing about gardens and small farms for Gardens IllustratedYankee MagazineCountry LivingCountry Living GardensBetter Homes & GardensOld House Journal’s New Old House, among others and Cape Cod  Home where she produced an ongoing column and feature stories.

David Tansey founded The Landmark Trust USA in 1991.   He is the past president of The Landmark Trust USA and The Scott Farm and was involved in every step of revitalizing Landmark Trust USA and Scott Farm properties.

 

 

Heirloom Apple Pie

Heirloom apple pie and Vermont cheddar cheese, a perfect pair.

Heirloom apple pie and Vermont cheddar cheese, a perfect pairing.

It’s lunch time and poor us, all we have to eat is a fresh-baked apple pie filled with the last of the apples gleaned in the fall — Bramley’s Seedling, England’s favorite baking apple originating in the early 1800s;  Northern Spy a 1800s seedling from New York; and one of my favorite baking apples – Rhode Island Greening, a colonial apple from about 1650 discovered in Green’s End, Newport where a Mr. Green ran a tavern.  The farm’s  cooler has been turned off since December, yet these old timey apples are still firm and have held up wonderfully in long months of storage.

Bramley's Seedling, England's favorite heritage baking apple

Bramley’s Seedling, England’s favorite heritage baking apple

My husband, David Tansey, loves making pie and because he is such a good pie crust maker I have stayed away from the task until now.  I begged him for his recipe at breakfast and parcel it together but ask him to roll out the dough as it seems too wet (he knew it was just fine).

Northern Spy, a beautiful American heirloom apple perfect for a pie.

Northern Spy, a beautiful American heirloom apple perfect for a pie.

When my mentor left for work, I forged ahead with the filling making things up as I went along.  In the refrigerator I found the balance of a small bottle of iced cider from the Monteregie region of Quebec and used it to moisten peeled apple slices letting them mull around in the sweet scent of concentrated fermented cider while I fiddled with the dough.  Just before topping the pie I realize I haven’t added any flour or sugar to the mix of apples and sprinkle a tablespoon of each over the mound of slices.  Simple.

Calville Blanc d'Hiver, the classic French baking apple has a crown shaped base.  It is my absolute favorite for baking in a classic tarte tatin.

Calville Blanc d’Hiver, the classic French baking apple has a crown shaped base. It is my absolute favorite when baking a tarte tatin.

The pie, much to my delight, is a success.  My husband admires the way it looks it from the time he arrives home for lunch.  Admires it more when he tucks into a slice.  And says all things yummy when I suggest he try a bite with a piece of Grafton’s clothbound cheddar attached to his forkful of apples and crust.  We are both beaming.  The cheese adds a sharp tangy crumbly bite cutting into the sweet sureness of apple, flavors melding into a taste sensation.  We try the same effect again with a creamy cheddar from Shelburne Farms, not as sharp but just as nice with the pie.  Tasting the clothbound cheddar again I tell David the cave-aged mushroom mustiness would be an excellent foil to the carmalized sweetness of a tarte tatin made with Calville Blanc d’Hiver, a fine French cooking apple dating to 1598.  We vow to do just so when the new crop of apples are ready for harvest.

So many heirloom apples to pick from - indeed what variety to put in the pie.

So many heirloom apples to pick from – indeed what variety to put in the pie.

Please ask Jane Booth for permission to reproduce her copyrighted photographs and/or writing. Email jane.booth.1@gmail.com.  Jane has spent a good part of her career photographing and writing about gardens and small farms for Gardens Illustrated, Yankee Magazine, Country Living, Country Living Gardens, Better Homes & Gardens, New Old House Journal, and Cape Cod Home where she produced an ongoing column and feature stories.

David Tansey is the founder of The Landmark Trust USA and past president of Landmark and The Scott Farm.  He was involved in every step of revitalizing Landmark Trust USA and Scott Farm properties and loves using heirloom apples when he bakes a pie.

 

Autumn’s Heirlooms

Adventurous in my walking, I studied the growing wood near my home.  Not far from the cliff above Muddy Creek, I found an old cellar hole, nearby a settled pairing of scraggly lilac and apple tree.  A bit further on along the road running east and west of Crow’s Pond in North Chatham near Eastward Ho! I found a number of old timers with out-of reach apples, fruit miniaturized from lack of care.

NEG CCH Apples2

Heirloom apples are enjoying a resurgence!  Nantucket Historical Association’s Kathrina Pearl is designing an apple orchard of antique varieties–Rhode Island Greening, Roxbury Russet, Sops of Wine, and a French baking apple from the 1500s, Calville Blanc d’Hiver.  If the deer don’t get them she is looking forward to the day when they can ofter fresh squeezed cider and heirloom apple pies. Debbie and Eric Magnuson of Tiasquin Orchard in West Tisbury sell Macouns, McIntosh, and Liberty apples at Edgartown’s Morning Glory Farm.

Cape Cod Home Magazine

Bibliography – Heirloom Apples Our Favorite Books

Here are some of the titles we return to again and again to refresh our memories on fruits tart and sweet when we are lacking fruits to eat.

We are very careful with two collectible and historic guides to apples:

The Fruits and Fruit Trees of America; the culture, propagation, and management, in the garden and orchard, of fruit trees generally; with descriptions of all the finest varieties of fruit, native and foreign, cultivated in this country by A.J. Downing and corresponding member of the Royal Botanic Society of London; and of the horticultural societies of Berlin; the Low Countries; Massachusetts; Pennsylvania; Indiana; Cincinati, etc. – now that’s a mouthful!

The Apples of New York, Volumes I and II, S.A. Beach assisted by N.O. Booth and O.M. Taylor, Report of the New York Agricultural Experiment Station for the Year 1903.

More contemporary books are noted below.

Our two favorite sources are listed first.

The New Book of Apples by Joan Morgan, Alison Richards, and Elisabeth Dowle.  Their publisher, Ebury Press, calls it “the definitive guide to apples, including over 2,000 varieties.

When we can’t find what we are looking for in The New Book of Apples, we grab

Fruit, Berry and Nut Inventory edited by Kent Whealy and published by Seed Savers Exchange of Decorah, Iowa.  We have the third edition published in 2001 and know we need to upgrade soon.

Old Southern Apples by Creighton Lee Calhoun, Jr.  The revised and expanded edition is published by Chelsea Green.

Also by Chelsea Green, Michael Phillips The Apple Grower, A Guide for the Organic Orchardist.  We do not own a second book by Phillips, The Holistic Orchard:  Tree Fruits and Berries the Biological Way, but imagine it is just as good as the first.

A cute little book with great drawings and descriptions of heirloom apples is by Roger Yepsen and simply titled Apples. W.W. Norton & Company published this book in 1994 but it is still a treasure.

A new book on our desk is The Illustrated World Encyclopedia of Apples:  A comprehensive guide to over 400 varieties accompanied by 60 scrumptious recipes by Andrew Mikolajski and published by Lorenz books.

Apple of Your Pie:  A Collection of Apple Pie Recipes and the History of Apple Growing in America by Eileen Maher Kronauer and Charles Kronauer.  We found a copy of this interesting book of apples at a sweet little restaurant called Ariana’s in Orford, New Hampshire.

The Apple Source Book; particular uses for diverse apples by Sue Clifford and Angela King with Philippa Davenport, Common Ground

Another fun Common Ground book – Apple Games and Customs.

Orchards written by Claire Masset is great little book – we hope to have it and a sister book, Making Craft Cider,  put out by Shire Publications for sale at the farm stand.

 Apples; history, folklore, horticulture, and gastronomy by Peter Wynne, Hawthorn Books

Uncommon Fruits Worthy of Attention, A Gardeners Guide by Lee Reich, Addison Wesley Publishing Company

Grow Your Own Fruit, Carol Klein with Simon Akeroyd and Lucy Halsall, an imprint of Octopus Books/Mitchell Beazley

 Apple Pie; An American Story, John T. Edge, G.P. Putnam Son’s

 An Apple Harvest, recipes and orchard lore by Frank Browning and Sharon Silva, Ten Speed Press

The Origins of Fruit & Vegetables, Jonathan Roberts, Universe

 Apples by Frank Browning, North Point Press

The Fruit Hunters; A story of Nature, Adventure, Commerce and Obsession by Adam Leith Gollner, Scribner

The Apple Book, Rosanne Sanders, Philosophical Library,  New York in association with The Royal Horticultural Society

Apples, A Cookbook, Quantum Books Ltd

Pomologia from Netherlands/Germany/France/England by Johann Hermann Knoop, 1758 (reprinted FKG)

Burcombes, Queenies and Colloggetts by Virginia Spiers and illustrated by Mary Martin published by West Brendon

Gardener Cook by Christopher Lloyd, Willow Creek Press

 A is for Apple, Greg Patent and Dorothy Hinshaw Patent, Broadway Books

 Homegrown Fruit, Mimi Luebbermann, Chronicle Books

The Orchard, A Memoir by Adele Crockett Robertson – a truly wonderful book about tough times, Bantam

Henry David Thoreau, Wild Fruits, W.W. Norton and Company

 The American Apple Orchard, F.A. Waugh, 1911

 The Fruit Garden, A Treatise, P. Barry, 1862

Lipincott’s Farm Manuals – Productive Orcharding by Fred C. Sears, 1914

Please check our post on hard and sweet cider titles.

Please ask Jane Booth for permission to reproduce her copyrighted photographs and/or writing. Email jane.booth.1@gmail.com or call (802) 258-3971.   Jane has spent a good part of her career photographing and writing about gardens and small farms for Gardens Illustrated, Yankee Magazine, Country Living, Country Living Gardens, Better Homes & Gardens, New Old House Journal, and Cape Cod & Islands Home where she produced an ongoing column and feature stories.